Formosa: "Beautiful Island"

October has come. The weather has cooled considerably and is down-right pleasant. Evening strolls and relaxing on the balcony have become commonplace. We're told to enjoy it while it's here because winter is right around the corner and winters are cold, rainy - dismal (so we have that to look forward to). But anyway, before we get to show-and-tell, we'll give you a bit of insight into Taiwan customs and etiquette:

1. Face: face is the inexpressible pride one feels in oneself for one's position in life: education, employment, ancestry, family, and accomplishments; in short, pride in one's 'self concept.' Face can be given, gained, or lost. Face is best expressed in deeds, not words. A person who, through actions, expresses greatness has great face. A person who SAYS they have great face is insecure and will be derided, disdained, jeered at, and probably poked with a sharp stick.

2. Shame: Chinese culture is based on shame. Shame and face are eternally connected. It is the fear of losing face (feeling shame) that keeps people in line when dealing with people in their immediate social circle (ie - family and co-workers). However, when dealing with people outside their immediate social circle, all etiquette, principles and morals are often abandoned.

3. Gifts: Gift giving is an important part of life in Taiwan. Little gifts are frequently exchanged as a show of good faceness. The following, however, should never be gifted: knives or scissors (any sharp or cutting gifts suggest you want to cut off the relationship), clocks and watches (they are associated with counting down time till the receiver's death), handkerchiefs (they are associated with crying and funerals), or towels (again, associated with funerals).

4. Dining out: When dining out, Taiwanese customs dictate that the person who invites the other will pay. The person who accepts the invitation is supposed to offer to pay, however, the person who did the inviting must fight tooth-and-nail to pay the bill in the end. There are often times arguments and near fisticuffs over the bill, but it's all gamesmanship; everyone knows who's supposed to pay.

5. Drinking: When dining out (usually at a banquet) it is considered poor form to take a drink of alcohol without it being a toast. Therefore, if you want to take a sip of wine, you raise your glass to someone at the table with one hand around the glass and the other hand underneath the glass. You say "gan bei" and take your sip. You have successfully honored that person and may now drink. As you can imagine, toasts are frequent and jovial.




So, with the arrival of October, we are treated to some fun cultural festivities and traditions. During October, two holidays fall within five days of the other. The first is the Moon Festival (aka Mid-Autumn Harvest Festival) and the other is called 10-10 Day.

October 6th is Moon Festival Day. To celebrate Moon Festival, one barbeques, eats pomelos (a large green citrus fruit), eats moon cakes (little dense cakes with an egg yolk in the middle symbolizing a full moon), and looks at the moon. We were told that traditionally, pomelos are peeled in one piece and children wear them on their heads. We don't know if that story is true, could just be some Taiwanese guys attempt to make us look stupid, but at any rate, here are the two of us looking stupid.


So, we took advantage of a beautifully sunny and down right pleasant day and went hiking with some friends near the east coast of the island. The trail our friends took us to is called Caoling Old Trail and it was a great hike with great people on a great day. Let's look at some pics!

Here are the brave trail warriors getting ready for battle. What we know of as a "peace" sign (index and middle finger raised) is flashed in nearly every picture taken in Taiwan. In Taiwan, however, this gesture (as it was explained to us) means: "I am happy!"






We really had our nature eyes working this day as we scoped out a number of really cool insects. It also was quite fortuitous that we had an entomologist with us, so he educated us about the various discoverys made along the way. Quite fortuitous indeed!



The scenery was divine as the trail gradually, but steadily ascended through the coastal range.











Here's Ellen and our friend Celine at a nice rest spot by a river. Dragonflies buzzed all around as we played on the rocks along with parents and little friends.











Up and up the trail went. Higher and higher....step after step still higher. Below, left is a rather candid photo of Rube as he endures the arduous ascent.

And here is Ellen (right) reassuring Rube that the end is near and that he should keep up the pace. "Just a bit more, Rube, you're doing just swell! You can do it!"











Here's Rube and Ellen looking good by a well-photographed rock. We don't know what is carved onto the rock face, so if you know what it says, we'd be interested to find out.






We were rewarded with great views at the top before descending swiftly down to the coast.
















When we got down to the bottom, we decided it would be appropriate to treat ourselves for the hard day of hiking and socializing by eating what we have fondly come to call "ice cream burritos." Below, we have provided you with a photographic progression of the making of an "ice cream burrito." Following the photos, please read on for a brief description of what an "ice cream burrito" actually is.












So an "ice cream burrito" consists of a papery thin flour wrap sprinkled with a mixture of chopped peanuts and sugar. Onto the peanut/sugar mixture is placed two scoops of ice cream. Then, fresh cilantro is added and the whole concoction is wrapped like a burrito for pure enjoyment (the cilantro is optional and you're always asked if you want cilantro, but of course you want cilantro....why wouldn't you want cilantro with your ice cream?). Sounds weird huh? That's what we thought...but it's phenomenal....truly.


Next, on an extended weekend (the Taiwan government declared a 5 day weekend due to governmental holidays falling on unusual days of the week) we decided to take a trip to the famed Sun Moon Lake. En route to Sun Moon Lake, we thought we should take in the sights of some of the towns along the way and rode the JiJi Small Rail Train. We did a great hike in the town of Ershui where the forest is supposed to be pristine and tranquil, but they were clearing some sort of a road or riverbed and the sounds of construction and the ravaged landscape made the ambiance a little different than we imagined. But, we got to see monkeys!! The Formosan Rock Macaque to be exact.










Back on the train, we gradually ascended into beautiful mountains until we finally reached Sun Moon Lake. Sun Moon Lake is the largest fresh water lake in Taiwan, it is surrounded by picturesque mountains and the lake itself is very enchanting and delightful. We did a lot of hiking in the hills surrounding the lake and lounging lake-side and had a very enjoyable time while taking in the sights.

Here's Tsen Pagoda. It's a big pagoda. Good views. Big bell at the top. We rang it....many times.








Look at the photo below. This sight intrigued us to no end. It may appear to be only mildly intriguing, however, I must assure you, it is of the utmost intrigue. Intrigued? I thought you might be.



This churning, eruption of water not far from the shore of Sun Moon Lake is the spot where the water, from an underground river feeds the entire lake.